Tuesday, July 26, 2011

St. Francis: Faith? Food? Friends? It's got it all.


St. Francis is one of those unique restaurants that has a big city look with a small town attitude. The perfect balance of beauty and brains, St. Francis is without a doubt a city treasure. No longer a small town secret, it is easy to find it being reviewed by anyone from classically trained culinary critics to neighborhood hack-job foodies (present company included). St. Francis, Chef Aaron Chamberlin's first solo restaurant concept, entered the CenPho scene late in 2009 and every day it's open it keeps getting better. Located at Central Avenue and Camelback Road, gaining access at first may seem a little tricky. Thankfully they have complimentary valet and although valet at brunch may seem a little bourgy, you'll be thankful once you see the parking lot they have to contend with.

While I have been to St. Francis for dinner many times I had not yet been there for Brunch.  Being a big fan of sleeping in, I was excited for the food but our 11am arrival caused me to worry a little bit about the crowd we were sure to have to contend with. Much to my surprise, even with a rather large party we walked right in and got a killer table - which left me wondering: "should this brunch stay a secret?"  or was it possible that the brunch crowd is just not ready to consider St. Francis for more than just dinner. I mean the promotional a-frame sign outside screaming "Kids Eat Free"  made me quiver but walk in and that gorgeous wood-burning fragrance clearly isn't your mama's Grand Slam Breakfast special, if ya know what I mean.

Sometimes if I am trying a new brunch place that I've been to for dinner, it is more than likely that I would have already salivated over previewed the brunch menuhowever this time I was going in blind. Knowing Chamberlin's style of serving up food so savory it is not suitable for consumption in a public forum, (read: goat cheese embarrassingly smeared all over oneself), I had to wonder what sort of decadent creation that magically straddles the line between breakfast and lunch was in my future.

Cinnamon Roll
with Caramel Sauce
Immediately I devoured each word on the menu: "wood roasted mushrooms", "smoked bacon", "gruyère", "crispy onions". Even a plain old scone - "apricot-date graham cracker with crème fraiche" - sounded extraordinary. Then, the font parted and she sang to me. There it was, the wood-oven baked eggs with red wine braised beef, summer vegetables, tomatoes and gruyère. Immediately I knew she was the one. I talked my partner into ordering a side of fingerling potatoes with their fragrant rosemary, sage and lemon aïoli and with very little concern with what the rest of the group was ordering (unusual for me) I turned my attention to day dreaming about each savory bite.


When our orders arrived our a little bitty gal of a waitress strong-armed the platter into place in front of me with a hometown diner-esque warning of "careful, she's hot", which of course I completely disregarded and attempted to adjust my plate for optimum viewing - YIKES! - I had no idea it would leave a mark!!!   Quickly grabbing my fork and knife I moved beyond my sacrificial wound and plotted my strategy for devouring and savoring each bite while I struggled to politely wait for everyone to be served.
Wood-oven Baked Eggs
Photo Credit: The PaleoPeriodical
Immediately with each chunk of beef doused in its egg-yokey sauce I was on a familiar journey. In each morsel I could feel my grandfather's  butcher cleaver pounding through to the wooden chopping-block; I could taste the hours of marination in savory spices from my grandmother's kitchen and hear the crack of each log in the wood-burning oven as it sizzled and caramelized. 


It was a religious experience.


Fingerling Potatoes 
with 
rosemary, sage, lemon aïoli
When I regained consciousness I took a look around and realized my brunch mates had selected some other fantastic items. The turkey scramble with spinach, green onion and havarti cheese, the omelette with wood roasted mushrooms, fresh herbs and goat cheese,  and of course those previously mentioned fingerling potatoes with rosemary, sage, lemon aïoli.


Aside from the amazing ambiance and outstanding food it should be noted that the service level at St. Francis is consistently a stand-out. It is not unusual for multiple members of the service staff to stop by and see if you are enjoying your meal. Members of the waitstaff are quick to steer you away from a modification that will leave you unhappy or disappointed. Overall it is a superb experience.


So if you have not been to St. Francis for brunch I recommend you make it a weekend stop very soon!